World Cup 2010 - Travel Guide
>> Sunday, April 18, 2010
Heading to South Africa for the 2010 World Cup? In the first of a two-part series, read our insider’s guide to each of the host cities to get the most out of your trip.
Durban
Misconception: Surf city is the country's sleepiest city.
Word on the street: Durban's pace may be laid-back but you'll have to move fast to catch the best waves at 0500. Of South Africa's three major cities, Durban is perhaps the most multicultural and has spawned some of the country's best talent - look out for names like designer Amanda Laird Cherry and singers Busi Mhlongo, and Nibs van der Spuy.
Before kick off: The Elephant and Castle on bustling Florida Road and Jack Rabbit's in Morningside offer approximations of an English local, but for something more urbane, try Bean Bag Bohemia and the Beach Café on the beachfront. Spiga d'Oro is the go-to for late-night pasta and pizza. Little Gujarat and Palki restaurants celebrate Durban's Indian hertiage.
The final whistle: The Rainbow Jazz Restaurant is a Durban institution but expect simple tables and quarts of beer. Do swim in the Indian Ocean: the best beaches are to the north (Umhlanga) and south (Scottburgh) of the city. Further afield, the Midlands Meander, an extensive arts and craft's route, makes a pleasant day or overnight trip.
Red card: Avoid Point Road at night. Be circumspect about beachfront hotels; big names are good, but others, generally set back from the beach, have been sliding downhill since the 1980s.
Insider tip: uShaka Marine World is home to one of the five largest aquariums in the world; watch the harbour workings over a drink from the deck of the BAT Centre.
Durban StadiumPort Elizabeth
Misconception: A windy city in an industrial wasteland.
Word on the street: It's true that sand might whip your legs when the wind picks up on PE's excellent beaches but renowned Eastern Cape hospitality makes this place a friendly city.
Before kick off: There's not much permanently established around the stadium, so best to do your drinking around Summerstrand and Humewood, a 10-minute taxi ride away. Summerstrand's Boardwalk complex opposite the pier offers a casino, shopping and amusements for the kids. 34°South and 78 Restaurant and Bar dish up excellent fusion and seafood, while the Blue Waters Café hits the spot for cocktails.
The final whistle: Head out of town for a few days to Addo Elephant Park, enjoy outdoor adventures in the Sunday's River Valley and do the 8km (5-mile) Sacramento Trail at Sardinia Bay. Excellent surf spots - Jeffrey's bay, St Francis Bay and Cape St Francis - are an hour away on the N2 motorway. See the working fishing harbour at Port St Francis.
Red card: Steer clear of Happy Valley and other open park areas, particularly at night.
Insider tip: Walk on Shark Rock Pier and enjoy sundowners at any of the nearby pubs. Swim at Humewood and King's Beach and entertain the kids at nearby Bayworld, an oceanarium, snake park and cultural museum.
Port Elizabeth StadiumCape Town
Misconception: Snobbish locals in this most European of African cities pretend they don't belong to the rest of country.
Word on the street: People in queues will lend you money if you're a few rand short. Cape Town is known affectionately as Slaapstad (Sleepy Town), a play on the Afrikaans name Kaapstad.
Before kick off: Fill up at the 24-hour McDonalds opposite the stadium, which was rebuilt specifically for the World Cup. Stop at Den Anker at the Waterfront for delicious Belgian beer and chips, or try any of the bars in nearby Greenpoint.
The final whistle: Buy the makings of a picnic at the Porter Estate Produce Market on every Saturday morning at the Chrysalis Academy behind the Tokai Forest picnic area. Don't miss the Hoerikwaggo Trail, a five-night, six-day 100km (62-mile) hike from Cape Town to Cape Point.
Red card: Don't walk up Table Mountain alone or without the proper clothing and supplies - it's more dangerous than it looks. Avoid most places in Long Street. Although it's one of the city's oldest streets bristling with shops, cafés and restaurants, it is overrated.
Insider tip: Milnerton beaches are pristine and deserted; Ashton's Restaurant at Greenways Hotel is just as good as the food at the famed Mount Nelson Hotel (or Nelly to locals) but minus the snootiness; you can use the Table Mountain cable car for free on your birthday - take ID to prove it.
Johannesburg Sky Crapper
Johannesburg
Misconception: An unsightly and dangerous urban sprawl of mine dumps, shopping malls and housing complexes so secure they rival Fort Knox.
Word on the street: Extremely social city in which a counter street culture is developing alongside improved anti-crime measures. It is also the world's largest man-made urban forest, thanks to a city-wide tree planting initiative.
Before kick-off: As Jozi (as it's known to locals) is spread out, it's best to eat before you head off to a match. Parktown, Parkview, Greenside and Melrose Arch have a thriving pavement culture and a host of excellent restaurants and bars. Try Moyo, Gramadoelas and Sophiatown for unrivalled new-African cuisine.
The final whistle: Tour Soweto, passing through Vilakazi Street, once home to Nobel prize winners Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu. Catch up on South African history at the Apartheid Museum and Constitution Hill. Visit the Rosebank Mall rooftop craft market. Escape to the country on the Crocodile Ramble, an area offering adventure activities, arts and crafts plus spa hotels, or watch the sun rise over the Magaliesberg mountains on a hot air balloon safari.
Red card: Avoid ubiquitous shopping malls; be sensible but not paranoid about security - lock car doors, be discreet with expensive equipment and hold on to your handbag.
Insider tip: Admire the Joburg skyline while sipping a cocktail at Sky Bar in the Holiday Inn Sandton-Rivonia Road - it's the closest you'll get to New York in Africa. Take high tea at the Westcliff Hotel.
Bloemfontein Stadium
Bloemfontein
Misconception: Culturally and topographically flat.
Word on the street: Bloemfontein is built on a series of hills, is home to a thriving arts scene and is central to Johannesburg, Cape Town and Durban.
Before kick-off: Have a pint at The Mystic Boer, the home of South Africa's alternative Afrikaans rock scene. Most pubs and restaurants, like Beef Baron and Barbas Café, are situated around Westdene; many are franchises, however.
Red card: As Bloemfontein is an arid city, don't get excited about the Waterfront, which has been described as a "glorified cesspool".
Insider tip: Visit the National Women's Memorial, a memorial to the 27,000 Boer/Afrikaner women and children who died in British concentration camps during the second Anglo-Boer War. Previously unpublished Boer photographs have just been released.
